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Places,
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Tanzania Tanzania
Tourism |
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Stone
Town: A Zanzibar
Renaissance
We checked in at the Zanzibar Serena Inn, a 51-room world-class property on the Stone Town waterfront. The hotel, a splendid example of the careful preservation of historic buildings provided a perfect base for exploring on foot. This project undertaken by the Aga Kahn Fund for Economic Development, owner and manager of the Serena Hotels, involved the restoration and rehabilitation of two historic buildings , the Old Extelcoms Building and the Chinese Doctors' Residence. Finding De Silva proved to be all part of the Stone Town adventure. Not expecting quick results, we started our inquiry with the Serena's Duty Manager, Rahim Azad. "Of course, I know him well," he responded with a smile. "But since he does not have a phone, I will take you there in the afternoon." The five minute walk to De Silva's flat through twisting and turning casbah-like alleys, was immediately intoxicating. At every turn, a new vista. Swahili-clad people mixed with those of western dress. Old buildings in juxtaposition with recent renovations.
A living
Museum Our meandering continued past old buildings in various states of disrepair, interspersed with newly renovated buildings housing modern shops and hotels, that, like the Zanzibar Serena Inn, had preserved the original architectural design so to be in complete harmony with their surroundings. This respect for the environment is in large measure due to the fact in 1987, the Stone Town Conservation Authority was created to provide strict guidelines for architectural design and materials used in all renovations of public and privately owned buildings. Is it
working? The challenge to Stone Town, if it is to achieve a true renaissance, is to find the right formula for the preservation of its culture heritage, history and architecture, without creating a sterile new environment affordable only by the wealthy and the tourists, thus putting at risk the wonderful mosaic of peoples and cultures that make this historic community the enchanting place that it is today. From Africa
Travel Magazine the 1999 Congress edition. |
Zanzibar,
for me, was always one of those 'far off' places whose very
name conjured up a romantic, mystical image. The reality,
although on the brink of new development, in no way spoiled
the dream. Located about 30 K off the coast of mainland
Tanzania in the Indian Ocean, Zanzibar is actually an
archipelago with the two main Islands of Zanzibar (also
known as Unguja, the larger one) and Pemba (the smaller of
the two). Incorporated into the United Republic of Tanzania
in 1964, Zanzibar, which in 1992 had only 723,300 people,
does have 
its
own democratically elected president and government that run
the internal affairs of the Islands. 
At
once, provincial yet cosmopolitan, a reflection of its
history as a cross roads of the trade routes. De Silva lived
on the third floor of an old Arab style house. The knock
went unanswered. Our gracious hotel manager left a note on
the door to arrange a meeting with De Silva for the next day
to take us on a walking tour of Stone Town. De Silva's
personal story, intertwined with the recent history of Stone
Town, is one of many stories that reflect the diversity of
the population who call this historic place home. Born in
Goa, he came to Zanzibar at the age of nine. His father was
a dressmaker in the sultans' court. In 1958 de Silva started
work in accounting, but his interest in art soon led him to
work on the restoration of the paintings and murals of the
Catholic Cathedral of St. Joseph's. Built by the French
about 1898, the Cathedral's Romanesque style is a replica of
the basilica of Notre Dame De La Garde of Marseilles.
Although De Silver's early paintings featured Zanzibar
portraits, the work on the Cathedral spurred his interest in
the architecture and history of Stone Town. Concerned that
there was no record of these diverse architecture styles
influenced by the cultures of the Omani Arabs, Indians,
Persians and European colonials, his art now focused on the
buildings of Stone Town. De Silva captured these facades in
pen and ink and watercolor as well as with his camera. He
boasts a collection of over 300 photos, most taken by him,
and in many instances the only known record of the carved
wood doors, windows, iron latticework decorating the
balconies, the alleys, streets, historical and
architecturally important buildings typical of Stone Town.
In 1991, the United Republic of Tanzania approved a proposal
by de Silva to dedicate a series of postage stamps to the
rich architectural heritage and history of Stone Town. A
unique collection of four stamps were issued featuring De
Silver's Stone Town drawings of the National Museum, The
High Court building, the Balnara Mosque and a
Balcony.