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Switzerland
of Africa: Part Four
Guinea's
Atlantic Coast and the Slave
Route
by
Muguette
Goufrani
The
above photograph was taken during our
escorted tour of Guinea's "Slave Route"
several hours drive along the Atlantic
Coast from the capital city of Conakry.
Seeing this group of happy youngsters is
like a salute to freedom. The Slave Route
bus tour was provided courtesy of the
Ministry of Tourism and it preceded my
longer journey to the north by a few days.
The young Guineans in the above scene are
posing beside the barrel of a huge
European cannon, a rusty relic left over
from that dark and turbulent era in West
Africa's history. On the way to
Boké, we made a river crossing by
ferry and later drove beside a stretch of
beautiful, pristine beaches that are said
to be among the finest on the Gulf of
Guinea, which fronts on several
neighboring West African countries. On
many weekends expatriate workers from the
nearby bauxite mines travel to the beaches
for recreation. To them, it's like having
a private resort that matches many swank
club venues I've seen on this continent
and others.
T he
former slave fort at Boké village
is now an historic tourist site and
museum, which features abandoned holding
cells, underground passages and hideouts
areas along the river's estuary where
slaves were kept from general view. During
our stay at the village, several of us had
an opportunity to spend time with a family
whose ancestors were slave traders from
South Carolina. Many Guineans from this
area were transported to America to help
develop Carolina's rice growing
industry.
The lay of the land: I will provide
more details the Slave Route in the next
edition of Africa Travel Magazine, and
elaborate on other facets of our congress
activities and travels in Guinea. We plan
to organize tours from Canada and the USA
to Guinea starting in 2003, and this Slave
Route experience will be high on our
agenda. For an overview of this
fascinating country in terms of geography
and scenic attractions, the following
information has been provided by the
Ministry of Tourism. There are 4 distinct
areas designated by relief, climate, flora
and fauna, which are reflected in Guinea's
history and traditions.
Low Guinea: Stretching along the
Atlantic Ocean shoreline, and the
mountains of Fouta Djalon, plus lush
vegetation with mangrove swamps and
coconut palms.
Offshore Islands: Idyllic scenery with
miles of pristine, silver sand beaches and
rivers with broad estuaries.
Central Guinea: Large mountains and
high plateaus, plus a temperate climate
has earned the area the title "Switzerland
of Africa". The highest peaks are Mount
Loura in Mali (1515 m) and Mount Tinka in
Dalaba (1425m). They call it the Water
Tower of Western Africa because many
rivers take their origin (River Gambie,
Senegal, Niger, etc.) from it. These
rivers and churning rapids, hurtling down
the mountains create beautiful
waterfalls.
High Guinea: Plateaus with vegetation
and wooded Savannah with a dry climate.
The River Niger and its many tributaries
enrich the soil, making the area is
particularly appealing.
Forestry of Guinea. The subequatorial
zone is the domain of dense forests with
giant trees and lush groves.
Mount Nimba (1752m) doesn't attract
visitors for its rich copper ore alone,
there is abundant wildlife and rare flora.
That's why it is ranked as a Unesco World
Heritage Tourism Landmark.
Loos Islands. Located near Conakry is
an archipelago, the key islands being
Kassa, Room and Fotoba. There is also
Tortoise Island (where giant tortoises are
protected), Snake and Kid Islands. With
easy access by boat, these islands offer
beautiful white sand beaches for
relaxation and nautical sports.
The Dog that Smokes (Bondabom): Only 42
km from Conakry, on the crest of Mount
Kakoulima, is a phenomenal image on the
rock face; an enormous silhouette of a
dog's head. A sculptor's hands could not
do better, and it's even more striking
when there's a thick fog, and a wispy
smoke seems to come from the animal's
mouth.
Beach at Bel Air. 225 km from Conakry
in the Boffa area, Bel Air beach provides
7 km of white and silver sand. Gentle sea
breezes and luxuriant vegetation make it a
paradise.
Slave Road . Located along the coast
(Conakry, Forecariah, Dubreka, Boffa and
Boke) it's a grim reminder of the Slave
Trade. A joint project of UNESCO and OMT,
access is partly by asphalt road, local
trails or by the river road.
Bride Veil. A marvel of nature, 146 km
from Conakry and 13 km from Kindia on the
Mamou road are two waterfalls that create
a veil of exceptional beauty and
whiteness. The name "Bride Veil" attests
to its natural charm. There's a stage for
cultural dancing, 10 bungalows, a
restaurant and bar.
Dalaba Mountain Resort. A key tourism
site since the Colonial period, Dalaba is
nestled in the Foutana highlands, among
lush vegetation. It's a charming
community, with freshly scented air and an
average temperature of 10 degrees c. The
structure built by Colonial authorities
and businessmen is still standing.
The Lady of Mali. On Mount Loura at
1500 m, a woman of remarkable beauty
defies the ages. Shaped into the rock by
the wind erosion with all her anatomy
visible, "the lady of Mali" is nature's
masterpiece. Mali town is 588 km from
Conakry, and easy to access.
Source of the Niger: Located 562 km
from Conakry at Rubiko in Faranah is the
source of one of Africa's great rivers.
While it's mystery has attracted many
historical expeditions, it is easy to
reach by a mostly asphalt road.
Seredou Post. This area has its own
micro-climate, and a commanding view.
Located at 1200 m altitude, 40 km from
Macenta by asphalt road.
Nimba Road: A UNESCO World Heritage
site, located 1040 km from Conakry and 17
km from Kola, with access from N'Zerekore.
At 1752 altitude is a forested area with
rare wildlife (buffalo frogs and
chimpanzee families) at Bossou.
Carafir: Site of a hydroelectric dam
(75 mw), supplying electrical energy to
the Low and Medium Guinea. Access is by
the National Road #1 and a quality asphalt
road. The dam site is famous for its
wildlife and flora. The lake view is
especially beautiful, and its waters
provide an opportunity for great
freshwater fishing.
Badiar National Park. A natural
extension of Niokolokoba on the Senegalese
border, the (38.200 ha) park is located in
Koundara Prefecture, and wildlife is
abundant in this area.
Alcatraz Island. A rocky island,
Northwest of Boke and 300 km from Conakry,
it contains one of the greatest
concentrations of sea birds in West
Africa.
High Niger National Park. The area
abounds with game and is located in Guinea
East, covering a 4000 km2 area in the
Prefectures of Faranah, Dabola and
Kouroussa.
Footnotes
Guinea is on
the Atlantic Coast, bordering Liberia and
Sierra Leone. In
this section travelers will
find
a brief
visual sample of Guinea's beaches,
attractions,
shops,
restaurants
and hotel
facilities,
plus local tour operators to be featured
in our Africa Travel Magazine. Some items
will also be available in French thanks to
our Associate Editor Muguette Goufrani,
whose travel agency career began in North
and West Africa's French speaking
countries. Since Guinea is a
developing West African country, travelers
should make Conakry hotel reservations in
advance.
GUINEA COUNTRY
PROFILE: U.S. Embassy: B.P. 603,
Conakry, Guinea
tel.: (224) 41-15-20/21/23, fax: (224)
41-15-22.
Geography and Environment: On Atlantic
Coast Generally flat coastal plain, hilly
to mountainous interior. Generally hot and
humid; monsoonal-type rainy season (June
to November) with southwesterly winds; dry
season (December to May) with
northeasterly harmattan winds Environment
issues: Deforestation; inadequate supplies
of potable water; decertification; soil
contamination and erosion; overfishing,
overpopulation in forest region.
International agreements: Biodiversity,
Climate Change, Decertification,
Endangered Species, Hazardous Wastes, Law
of the Sea, Ozone Layer Protection,
Wetlands.
Population: Total: 7,466,200 (July 2000
est.).
Languages: French (official), each ethnic
group has its own language Religions:
Muslim 85%, Christian 8%, indigenous
beliefs 7%
Ethnic groups: Peuhl 40%, Malinke 30%,
Soussou 20%, smaller ethnic groups 10%
National holiday: Anniversary of the
Second Republic, 3 April (1984)
Legal system: based on French civil law
system, customary law, and decree; legal
codes currently being revised; has not
accepted compulsory ICJ jurisdiction.
Economy: Currency: 1 Guinean franc (FG)
= 100 centimes
Exchange rates: Guinean francs (FG) per
US$1 - 1,292.5
Guinea possesses major mineral,
hydropower, and agricultural resources.
The agricultural sector employs 80% of the
work force. Guinea possesses over 25% of
the world's bauxite reserves and is the
second largest bauxite producer. The
mining sector accounted for about 75% of
exports in 1998. Industries: bauxite,
gold, diamonds; alumina refining; light
manufacturing and agricultural processing
industries. Exports: bauxite, alumina,
gold, diamonds, coffee, fish, agricultural
products. GDP : agriculture: 24%,
industry: 31%, services: 45%. Electricity
- production by source: fossil fuel:
63.55%, hydro: 36.45% Agriculture -
products: rice, coffee, pineapples, palm
kernels, cassava (tapioca), bananas, sweet
potatoes; cattle, sheep, goats; timber
Transportation: Airports - with paved
runways: 5
Domestic airlines offer services to most
interior cities, often to rudimentary dirt
landing strips
Railways: total: 1,086 km (includes 662 km
in common carrier service from Kankan to
Conakry)
Highways paved: 5,033 km
Ports and harbors: Boke, Conakry,
Kamsar
Waterways: 1,295 km navigable by
shallow-draft native craft
Television broadcast stations: 6
Guinea's
major ethnic group the Malinke also reside
in parts of Mali, Cote d'Ivoire and
Senegal, and at an earlier time ruled one
West Africa's great empires. Malinke are
also known to have originated the best
kora musicians in West Africa. The kora is
a unique and popular musical instrument in
the area. For details on the amazing kora-
visit this informative
website:
http://www.coraconnection.com/
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS: A passport and visa
are required. There is an airport
departure tax. Travelers should obtain the
latest information and details from the
Embassy of the Republic of Guinea, 2112
Leroy Street, N.W., Washington, D.C.
20008, telephone (202) 483-9420. Overseas
inquiries should be made to the nearest
Guinean Embassy or Consulate.
CURRENCY REGULATIONS: All travelers to
Guinea are prohibited from having more
than 5,000 Guinean francs (about four US
dollars) in their possession when they
leave the country. Western Union has an
office off the Avenue of the Republic in
downtown Conakry. Money transfers have
worked successfully. Credit cards are
rarely accepted, except at the two major
hotels in Conakry. Credit card cash
advances are not available. Inter-bank
fund transfers are possible at the
"BICIGUI", a local bank, but can be
difficult and expensive.
TELEPHONES: Several cellular phone
services are available. A number of public
phones operate by locally purchased phone
cards. Telephones are available in Conakry
and in other major towns and hotels.
However, while privatization has improved
the communication system, disruptions in
telephone service are common.
Tourism Marketing: As a team, Guinea's
Ministry of Tourism, Hotels and
Handicraft, supported by its National
Tourism Office, the Promotion and
Development Office of Handicrafts, and the
Professionals Federation, is staging a
strong, combined effort. Their project is
the development and promotion of the rich
natural and cultural heritage that
visitors to Guinea are invited to
discover.
Photo
Credits: Muguette Goufrani / Robert Eilets
/ Guinea Ministry of Tourism

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Photo Credits:
Muguette Goufrani / Robert Eilets / Guinea
Ministry of Tourism
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