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6 ème Symposium Decouverte de Fès

Berber Wedding Fair at Imilchil, Morocco
by Muguette Goufrani

My father, who operated a tour company in Casablanca, Morocco and France for many years, took me along with a German tour group to visit a traditional "Wedding Fair" at Hadiddou Imilchil, a Berber village in southern Morocco. While I knew that many Berber Fairs combine a local Saint's Day with a regional market event, only at September's 'moussem' (pilgrimage) of Imilchil, have I seen such a colorful pageant, with instant engagement, and a mass exchange of marriage vows. Berbers have inhabited North Africa for centuries, some being of Caucasian ancestry, with fair complexions and blue eyes. Visitors may think of Berbers as exotic outsiders, yet they preceded the Arabs in settling Morocco, and they remain the country's main culture. This is expressed by the phrase, "Morocco is Berber - the roots and the leaves of freedom."

While the Wedding Fair is key part of Berber marital custom, families usually arrange marriages in their home village. Women are free to divorce and remarry. At the moussem, divorced and widowed women form the majority, and are identified by their pointed headdress. The courtship is a family affair as I learned after accepting an invitation to drink mint tea in the goat hair tent of a Berber elder. His oldest daughter Malika, prettied up her divorced 18 year old sister Yasmina with traditional beauty aids - rubbing saffron colored powder into her sister's eyebrows, applying kohl to outline her eyes and carmine rouged to her cheeks. A wool cape, striped in tribal colors, covered her white dress; then a cone shaped headdress was assembled, held on by loops of spangled wool.

I gave Yasmina a silver chain as a wedding gift, since silver brings good luck. Many Westerners think that Moroccans purchase their wives at the fair, but in truth, marriage depends on mutual consent and family approval.

A nod and a wink: The language of gesture is as clearly understood by these people as the spoken word. By having a friend help him choose a bride (with often no more than a silhouette and two dark eyes as a clue) the groom gets overcomes his shyness. All day long, in pairs, these men weave in and out amongst a cluster of anxious brides. Then, welcomed by a shy glance or a quick nod, the suitor will stop to speak to the lady, encouraged by a signal from his friend's reassuring hand.

Once this happens, the newly acquainted boy and girl unite, holding hands as a sign of intent. Male relatives who accompany the bride-to-be lend advice, often making snap judgment calls at first sight. If rejection is signaled by a broken handclasp, it's time to look elsewhere.

When a bride does give consent, she may speak the magic phrase," You have captured my liver." Since a healthy liver aids digestion and promotes well-being, in Berber culture it's the liver, not the heart that's considered the location of true love. Might one say, "Darling, my liver pines for you?" Often snowbound behind village walls for up to six months a year, the new couples must learn to live in harmony. Despite those old Foreign Legion movies from the 50s, which showed Berbers as being fierce, hot tempered and warlike, they believe in "paix chez eux" (peace at home).

Moroccan food
Who wouldn't enjoy steamed semolina, topped with a meat and vegetable sauce called couscous? Or tajines. a vegetable stew that may contain rabbit, lamb, goat and chicken meat, combined with prunes, apricots or raisins. Pastilla (baked pigeon pie) is made of layered filo pastry, with nuts and spices, and coated with sugar. With your morning coffee, try a light deep fried Spanish doughnut, we call sfinj, or cornes de gazelle pastries.

History and culture
Most of the 27 million Moroccans are Berbers, Arabs or Moors (people of mixed Berber and Arab descent), whose ancestors built the mighty Moorish empire that once ruled Spain, Portugal and most of Northern Africa. Most Berbers dwell in the mountains, while the Arabs and Moors live on the plain and desert. Most cities have a European section a Jewish enclave, and a Medina (Arab-Moorish section). Over the past 3,000 years, its geographic location has given Morocco a strategic importance far beyond its small size. The country has taken the best from the Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, Berbers, Portuguese, Spanish and French.

Muguette Goufrani,
Africa Travel Magazine's Associate Editor covers destinations and events in Francophone Africa. She has lived in five West African countries, working for Air Afrique, Royal Air Maroc and Citroen. As a Travel Agent, she worked in North Africa, where her family operates an inbound tour company, and later in Tahiti and Cambodia.

Letter from a reader

Dear Muguette,

Since I read your article about
Morocco, we took a group of African American Female educators there last year and had a wonderful time. Hope to take a group again next year. Briefly, the experience was wonderful. We spent most of our time in Agadir with a one night excursion to Marrakech. We stayed at Club Valtur and the resort was great, albeit very Italian. I didn't learn much about the people or culture of Morocco, hence the need for a second trip. However, I did make a few friends (smile). Morocco is a fascinating if you love sensory experiences or sensory overload!!

The experience started as soon as we boarded the Royal Air Maroc flight, and continued for the entire trip. I'll never forget the sights, smells and sounds of the souk at Marrakech!!! Shopping was great as well. As I said, I prefer to get a little more into the country itself, but it was a great 'spa experience'. The trip was billed as "Sister Scholars at the Spa"!!! Actually, Morocco was a great value I would go again for that reason alone. I started writing an article several months ago and would be happy to share my thoughts with you further.

E-mail Muguette with your own travel experiences in Morocco
and other North or West African destinations.

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Photo Credits: Morocco National Tourist Office / Izza Goufrani, Gulf Air / Muguette Goufrani / Thierry Mareschal