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 EXPERIENCE
SWAZILAND:
A TRADITIONAL AFRICAN KINGDOM
by Helen
C. Broadus
In conjunction
with the Africa Travel Association's 28th Annual
International Congress, which will take place in
Lusaka & Livingstone, Zambia May 11-16, 2003,
Venue International Professionals, Inc. (VIP) will
be conducting a Familiarization (FAM) Tour to the
Kingdom of Swaziland. The overall purpose of the
VIP FAM Tour to Swaziland is to learn more about
this unique destination in order to successfully
market it to North American clients who would
prefer a wonderful trip to a lesser visited African
country. It should be noted that tourism in
Swaziland is a major foreign exchange earner. VIP
will therefore offer this three day/two night
excursion to Swaziland as a Pre-Tour to the ATA
Congress in Zambia.
Background.
Swaziland is affectionately referred to as Africa's
"last truly traditional kingdom" and our FAM Tour
will take place from May 7-10, 2003. Swaziland
possesses a wealth of attractions from a diverse
and colorful culture to a beautiful and varied
landscape with abundant wildlife and friendly
people. Swaziland is also known as one of the
safest tourist destinations in southern Africa.
Swaziland's special attraction is its unique blend
of African traditional and modern lifestyles.
Swaziland is peaceful and tranquil and has
preserved its cultures and traditions as a vital
element in the day-to-day existence of its people.
From the ritual smearing of the bride with red
ochre in the traditional marriage ceremony, to the
mystical rite of Kingship, the Incwala, each ritual
is deeply significant and is performed only at the
appropriate time and place. It has been said that
no matter where you travel within the Kingdom, you
will be met with the courtesy, friendliness and
genuine desire to offer you the "Royal Sensation"
that Swaziland provides.
It is the balance
of the ancient and the modern that gives Swaziland
and her people their distinctive character. Our
visit to Swaziland will include many opportunities
to experience and enjoy such a rich cultural
immersion into Africa life. Swaziland is southern
Africa's smallest state with a population of less
than one million people and is landlocked between
Mozambique and South Africa. The Capital City of
Swaziland is Mbabane with an estimated 40,000
inhabitants and the official languages are English
and SiSwati. SiSwati is used every day by the vast
majority of the population. Swaziland gained its
independence on the 6th of September 1968. The King
of Swaziland is the cornerstone to the maintenance
of traditional culture and customs.
Culture. Urban
Swazis, despite a very 21st century lifestyle,
still maintain firm links to the rural areas where
water is fetched from the river and cooking takes
place in a three-legged pot over an open fire. Here
you can watch the people of the land wearing
traditional dress and singing the songs of their
ancestors while performing ancient ritual dances.
You may see many Swazi's dress in colorful costume,
featuring toga-like garments known as the mahiya
and the women with the traditional "beehive"
hairstyles. There are a large variety of local
dishes, most of which are based on traditional
recipes such as samp and meat.
At the very heart
of this strongly traditional society is the
Ngwenyama or Lion, the father and life force of the
nation, the King. Without the King, it is believed,
there would be no Swaziland and it is true that his
persona is woven into every aspect of Swazi
lifestyle. Under the leadership of King Sobhuza II
(1899-1982), the world's longest reigning monarch,
Swaziland received its independence from Britain in
1968. After his death, one of his sons, Prince
Makhosetive, was introduced to the nation as the
Crown Prince. He was crowned in 1986 as King Mswati
III and serves as the sovereign head of the
country. The affairs of Swaziland are administered
by the Prime Minister and cabinet through a
Parliament of elected members.
Ritual Ceremonies.
Two major traditional ceremonies are held in
Swaziland annually: The Incwala and the Umhlanga
Reed Dance. The Incwala is the sacred ceremony of
Kingship, a mystical right of powerful spiritual
significance for the nation. The Incwala begins on
the new moon closest to the longest day between
December and January. The Incwala is the most
sacred annual event and spectators are permitted,
but not encouraged. The climax of the Incwala is
the fourth day, during which the King ceremoniously
eats the first fruits of the new
harvest.
The Umhlanga Reed
Dance is an occasion where all unmarried maidens
(tingabisa) of the country gather together to
collect reeds (Umhlanga). The tingabisas in their
teens and early twenties, wearing the colorful
traditional costume of the unmarried maidens, walk
long distances to collect reeds and bring them back
to the residence of the Queen Mother who is known
as the Indlovukazi, the "She Elephant". The final
days are the most spectacular when thousands of
tingabisas return to the enormous cattle kraal of
the nation at Ludsidzini. Refreshed after a night's
sleep, they arrive in the Royal enclosure the
following morning, dancing, singing and undulating,
to deliver their bundle of reeds. The reeds are
used to rebuild the windbreak of the Queen Mother's
residence and symbolize the loyalty of the
tingabisas (maidens).
Accommodations.
There is a variety of accommodations available in
Swaziland, from casino hotels to country hotels to
basic bed and breakfast establishments. Most
camping facilities are in national parks. Probably
the best accommodations can be found at the Royal
Sun Hotel in Mbabane. Mbabane is the administrative
capital and Mazini is the commercial hub, situated
next to Matsapha Industrial estate. Lobamba is the
legislative capital.
Shopping. Wooden
masks, beadwork, baskets, candles, leather items,
soapstone figures, the sita (woven grass bowl), the
ludzino or black Swazi clay pot and batik work can
be found at reasonable prices throughout
Swaziland.
Sightseeing
Attractions. Lying in the northern end of the
Ezulwini Valley, the capital of Mbabane is an easy,
attractive and safe place to walk around and do
some sightseeing and shopping. The Mbabane Market
is nearby and has reasonably priced authentic
handicrafts, beadwork, stone and wood carvings,
grass weaving and colorful cloths. The largest
granite rock in the world, Sibebe Rock, is on the
outskirts of Mbabane. There are also spectacular
views of Pine Valley from this location, and it is
also an excellent picnic spot. Sibebe beer is a
local creation named after the rock.
The Tea Road winds
its way to the top of the Mdzimba Mountains, burial
place of the Kings, from where you will see
hundreds of meters below, the magnificent panorama
of the Ezulwini Valley spread out beneath the twin
peaks of Sheba's Breasts, referred to in Rider
Haggard's King Solomon's Mines. Lobamba lies on the
outskirts of Ezulwini Valley, and is the royal
center of Swaziland and the cultural hub of the
kingdom. Prime attractions are the National Museum
and the King Sobhuza II Memorial Park next to the
Houses of Parliament. It is a fitting tribute to
Swaziland's best-loved king and is set in spacious
gardens. The Houses of Parliament have displays of
Swazi history, tradition, dress and lifestyle.
Ngwenya is west of Mbabane. The Ngwenya Glass
Factory lies in the foothills of a mountain that
looks like a basking crocodile &endash; which is
what the name ngwenya means in Swazis. Here you can
watch the skilled glassblowers turning molten
recycled glass from roaring furnaces into drinking
glasses and charming curios. Endlotane Studio,
which specializes in tapestries, is also
nearby.
Siteki is renowned
for its Inyanga and Sangoma School, which trains
traditional healers and diviners. It is a
fascinating mixture of botany, spiritualism, and
natural science. Not far from Siteki is the
Muti-Muti Nature Reserve, used extensively by
practitioners at the school for the wide variety of
herbs, bulbs and roots which grow there. The Grand
Valley is aptly named for its spectacular views
along the Mkhondvo River towards Nhlangano in the
south. The name Nhlangano means "meeting place",
and the town of the same name was so-called to
commemorate the historic meeting between King
Sobhuza II and King George IV of Great Britain in
1947. Before then the town was called Geodgegun. It
is well worth a visit to experience the natural
splendor of the heart of this region.
The privately
operated Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary was the first
wildlife sanctuary established in Swaziland. Among
the animal species found here are zebra, giraffe,
white rhino, hippo and crocodile which can be
viewed while riding horseback. More than 200
species of bird are also found here, including
Swaziland's striking national bird, the Purple
Crested Lourie. Mlawula Nature Reserve borders
Mozambique in the far east of Swaziland and is a
rarely visited 18,000 hectare reserve offering
beautiful, if harsh, landscapes in the foothills of
the Lebombo Mountains. A large variety of wildlife
can be found here and walking trails are still
being established along with archaeological trails
as Stone Age artifacts have been discovered here.
Great fishing and canoeing in the Mbuluzi Gorge can
also be experienced at the Mlawula Nature Reserve.
The 6,200 hectare
Mkhaya Game Reserve is perhaps the most well-known
of the country's reserves. Situated in the lower
region of the Kingdom, it has become a refuge for
endangered species including all of the Big Five
except for the lion. Access to the reserve is
strictly by appointment only. The reserve's boast
is that you are more likely to see wild black
rhinos here than anywhere else in Africa. Mkhaya
Game Reserve is about 145kms south-east from
Mbabane. If you like a wet and wild adventure ride,
white water rafting is at its best near the reserve
on the Great Usutu River, where three and four
grade rapids are flanked by traditional Swazi
homesteads on the forested banks. Hlane Royal
National Park is located 105kms north-west of
Mbabane, en route to Mozambique. Although it is not
as scenic as the other parks, it offers visitors
some of the best game viewing in
Swaziland.
The Malolotja
Nature Reserve lies alongside the road towards
Piggs Peak, a route through valleys and the
magnificent highlands. This area is a walker's
paradise and offers some of the finest hiking
trails in southern Africa. Malolotja is renowned
for its birdlife and unusual and varied plant life.
Here you can hike more than 200kms of trails
bisecting green hills, waterfalls and rock pools.
Not to be missed is Malolotja Falls, which plunge
90 meters into the valley below. In addition, the
oldest mine in the world is situated in the south
of Malolotja at Lion Cavern on the edge of an
escarpment with spectacular views in all
directions. It is both a magical and mystical place
to visit.
Mantenga Nature
Reserve and Swazi Cultural Village is located in a
small and protected area of natural bush vegetation
in a secluded corner of the Ezulwini Valley. This
Swazi Cultural Village is situated next to the
little Usutu River in a clearing below the Mantenga
Falls. Authentic Swazi beehive huts have been
constructed &endash; as they would have been 150
years ago &endash; where visitors can experience
true Swazi culture. Traditional Swazi dances are
performed twice a day. If you are interested in
staying overnight, accommodation in traditional
Swazi beehive huts, or in luxury tents on unique
wooden platforms among the trees are
available.
Interesting Things
to Do. Horseback riding is one of the best ways to
appreciate the peaceful Swazi outdoors. Several
hotels and stables offer horseback riding. Other
forms of adventure are mountain biking, hiking,
white-water rafting on the Great Usutu River and
trout and tiger fishing. There is an international
18-hole, par 72 golf course at the Royal Swazi Sun
Hotel in a spectacular setting. The Swazi Spa
Health and Beauty Studio is the place to go if you
need reviving after a long day of strenuous
activities.
Getting There. The
main transport services include Airlink Swaziland,
the national airline which is based at Matsapha
Airport. Bookings are available through South
African Airways which offers twice daily flights to
and from Johannesburg. Visitors traveling to
Swaziland need only to comply with South African
passport requirements. U.S. citizens do not require
a VISA.
Currency.
Swaziland's unit of currency is the Emalangenu (E1
equals 100 cents). The value is on par with the
South African Rand, which is also accepted
throughout Swaziland. U.S. Dollars and Travellers
Cheques are also widely accepted but there is
limited acceptance of credit cards. Foreign
currency can be exchanged in Mbabane.
What To Bring.
Lightweight clothing with a jacket for the very hot
summers in the low-lying areas of Swaziland. Winter
in the higher elevations can be bitterly cold with
temperatures approaching freezing so warm clothing
is necessary. Don't forget to bring along good
walking shoes. Casual dress is acceptable for most
occasions.
Climate. Swaziland
is located in the Southern hemisphere. The average
temperature in the summer is 15 to 25 degrees
Celsius and 5 to 19 degrees Celsius in the winter.
The greater part of the annual rainfall occurs
between October and April during the summer months.
The hottest months are January and February where
temperatures can reach 30 to 35 degrees Celsius in
the valleys. Winters can be very cold from May to
September.
Other Facts. In
the main towns it is safe to drink the tap water
but water outside of the towns should be boiled or
purified before drinking. Electricity is 220V AC,
50Hz. There is a good working system telephone with
a limited internal network and the country code is
268. Cellular telephone coverage is being expanded
and will gradually be available in all major towns.
Internet connection is available in Mbabane and
Manzini
For more
information about Swaziland, please contact the
Swaziland Tourist Office at Tel: +268 4046420 and
Fax: +268 4045414 and check-out their website at
www.mintour.gov.sz.
About the author:
Helen C. Broadus is the President of Venue
International Professionals, Inc. (VIP) &endash; a
full service travel and tourism company based in
the Washington Metropolitan Area that focuses on
the African Continent. She is also the Executive
Secretary of the Africa Travel Association (ATA)
and the Chairperson of the ATA's Education and
Training Committee. For more information about
VIP's FAM Tour of Swaziland, contact Helen C.
Broadus at Tel: (301) 856-9188; Fax: (301)
868-2218; and E-Mail at
vipinc@erols.com.
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